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Food & Wine
Restaurant Review
Avenues Bakery
& Bistro
481 E. South Temple, Salt Lake City
(801) 746-5626
Monday-Sunday 7am-10pm
The vibe at Avenues Bakery & Bistro is unique in Salt Lake. Situated on the fringes of downtown and its namesake neighborhood, it’s a great respite for residents of the area. Its appeal is urbane, with distressed floors and exposed ceilings and brick. But even with all its sophisticated trappings, it manages to be quite comfortable. The lofty space with abundant windows gives it an elemental charm that’s inviting to moms with strollers and the suited working-class.
In its original incarnation, it was simply the Avenues Bakery. In the daylight hours, this was where loaves and flaky mille feuille creations amassed a loyal following. To top off the offerings in the bread rack and abundant pastry case, folks could stop in for lunch and savor some truly delectable sandwiches. And that’s still the scenario at the somewhat newly-minted Avenues Bakery and Bistro. It’s a carb-loaded haven friendly to patisserie aficionados and sophisticated vegetarians.
Lunch is a stellar way to experience the place. A creative range of sandwiches appeals to any sort of appetite, never mind political or allergic characteristics of the diner. Vegetarians can rejoice in everything from the Pesto Primo Melt (a delicious construction of Portobello mushroom, roasted red peppers, with provolone and fontina cheeses) to the Pear, Walnut Gorgonzola (featuring a great flavor range of salted rich walnuts, crunchy sweet pears, and the smooth earthy notes of Italian blue cheese) to something called Paul’s Favorite Sandwich (again, with roasted red peppers, this time paired with watercress, tapenade, caramelized onions, and cheese). These options are just as appetizing for omnivores, who can stretch their selection with a Turkey, Brie, and Apple sandwich, and a hearty interpretation of Roast Beef.
Most of the sandwiches are available in half orders, with the exception of the Pesto Primo Melt and the Ultimate Grilled Cheese Sandwich. And trust me, the latter you’ll want whole anyway. It’ll have you bowing to the all-powerful cheese gods—creators of brie, asiago, and provolone. Melted and tucked between golden-toasted rosemary bread, it could be nominated for those precious few “food-gasm” moments in your lunch hour.
The relatively new Sunday brunch is a great addition to the menu. The entrées bear names of Salt Lake neighborhoods, some more obscure than others (after ten years in Salt Lake City, I did not know there was a place called Lindsay Gardens), but all equally delicious. Eggs Benedict, though easily mangled on many a menu, was a triumph with rich and balanced hollandaise and perfectly-poached eggs. The house potatoes are fantastic, too. And in the salmon hash, you do get a hearty presence of the coveted fish.
Avenues seems to be on a roll. But, dinner is another matter. I’ve heard from friends and frequent diners that they love the place as a dinner spot. So, I was disheartened at a lackluster evening featuring an ahi that more resembled pork in consistency and color. And my companion wasn’t thrilled with his duck, either. He loved the crisp skin, but the 40 or so bites it took to swallow the morsel was more than annoying. Oddly, the accoutrements, like the stir-fried veggies or mashed potatoes, were quite good. But it couldn’t hold up what was supposed to be the star of the entrée.
Those who are familiar with the Best Cellars wine store chain will get a kick out of the wine list. Listed by characteristics and personality, it’s easy to navigate your way around to pair with a meal. Unfortunately, a wine that promised to “wink” didn’t. In fact, it barely made a sound or gesture; apparently, we managed to order the Helen Keller of wines. Suspecting that it was corked, we asked and got another glass from another bottle. Service can be a bit of a crapshoot, but no matter their stress levels or how far they’re stretched, the servers do manage to always be friendly. And it’s rather nice to see the face behind the kitchen force. Four out of my five most recent visits, the chef has met his patrons face to face to ask about their meal.
I suspect it’s only a matter of time before the dinner menu becomes fine-tuned for consistency. Until then, thanks to a great lunch menu, pastries, and loaves, you don’t have to dine on bread alone.
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