by Matt Andrus and Josh Jones
SWEET (Matt Andrus): I’m a lifelong food fan and cook, though I am, sadly, straight with a bit of a belly. Like Mario Batali.
SOUR (Josh Jones): Mario Batali is gay and so am I.
Knowing Meditrina, the bar is set high for another restaurant from Jen Gilroy and Amy Britt. They’ve survived in an unlikely location, a down economy — all while serving tapas before they were trendy. So we expected the same level of inventiveness and unique flavors at their new breakfast/lunch diner, Pig & A Jelly Jar.
SOUR: I’d like it to be Pig In A Jelly Jar. That pig lubricating himself up in a jelly jar, you know?
SWEET: I was a bit nervous when I thought you invited me to put my pig in your jelly jar. Still, it was better than that supposed lunch at “Hot Dog in my Hallway” or “Teabags and a Salad Bar.”
It’s not high-concept like Faustina or Wild Grape, nor is it a traditional diner like Lamb’s Café or Ruth’s Diner. It’s somewhere in the middle, with delicate ingredients like strawberry coconut jam and homemade sausages. Most condiments are done in house, even the amazing tartar sauce. SWEET, who has been known to chow down on some fish from time to time, said it was the best tartar sauce he’s ever had.
SWEET: That pig burger is huge!
SOUR: Well, I have a really big mouth and I can fit anything in here.
Fortunately, our great server, Rachel, told us it was a garlic burger, which isn’t mentioned on the menu –it’s more garlicky than Cotton Bottom’s. SWEET ate it and he still has garlic burps four hours later. (I can smell it). The bacon/onion/jam and blue cheese, as advertised on the menu, is lost to the garlic.
The sausage in the chicken apple rosemary grinder was very good, but SOUR complained the meat was too small for the bun – that’s a problem he often has.
SOUR loves chicken and waffles, but we found the chicken to be as well-used and dry as a Republican cruising Rentboy.com while the waffle was as moist and dimply as the rentboy himself.
The maple-brined pork chop was thinly cut and excellent with a sweet glaze, sided with perfectly cooked, fresh local eggs and well-seasoned fries.
One high for SOUR (among many he’s had in his life) were the hand-cut fries that were salted and cooked perfectly. Finally, the carrot cake cupcake was both moist and delicious, (despite SWEET’s insistence that he doesn’t like nuts in his mouth). SWEET and SOUR both agree on one thing: the service from Michael and Rachel was impeccable, knowledgeable, timely and was full of all the cheerfulness you’d want from a morning server.
SOUR: Wait! We’ve forgotten the most sinful item! The peanut butter, jelly and bacon sandwich.
SWEET: I’m telling you, it makes me feel like Elvis!
SOUR: Yup! It makes me feel like I’ve had regretful bathroom sex at the Trapp. So good and so bad.
EDITOR: Wrap it up, boys.
SOUR: Ultimately, Pig & A Jelly Jar is like that really good friend who is charming and smart but you just can’t get it up for.
SWEET: We’ll be back! Sooner, rather than later, and I hope the menu has become a bit more adventurous.
Price: This place is cheap! Everything is between $4 and $12. They also have beer, wine and beer-cocktails.
Hours: Spectacular – Salt Lake City has needed a place that is open for breakfast. From 7:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. every day. Also open 5:30-8 p.m. on Sunday evenings for Sunday Supper. Mary B. Malouf says it’s great, so it must be.
Location: Comfortably located at 401 E. 900 South
SOUR’s gay-friendly meter: Palm Springs Sauna!